We arrived at Cataratas del Iguazú International Airport bright and early at 7:30 a.m., where we were met by our local guide, Guillermo De La Rosa. He had come highly recommended through an Argentina travel WhatsApp group, and from the moment we met him, he took charge.
“First, we go to Brazil,” he said. “If you delay, the border queue will be too long.”
We didn’t argue. Within minutes, we were well on our way to the Brazil border. Guillermo, as a licensed guide, had access to a faster lane, and we could already see regular traffic building up. The crossing was smooth, helped by the fact that we already had visas, and soon we were on the Brazilian side of Iguaçu Falls.
On the way, Guillermo informed us about the indigenous Guarani people, who have the right to cross the border freely as and when they want. They still live in and around the Iguazú rainforest, and some of them maintain their practices and culture. Even the name Iguazú is derived from the Guarani words—*y* (water) and *guazú* (big), meaning “big water.”
The Brazilian Side: The Big Picture
Iguazú Falls sits on the border of Argentina and Brazil. Like Niagara Falls, most of the falls are technically on one side, but the best panoramic views are from the other. In this case, while most of the waterfalls lie in Argentina, the sweeping, wide-angle views come from Brazil. This is not a single waterfall. It is a massive system of around 275 individual cascades spread across nearly 3 kilometers (about 1.7 miles). The number of waterfalls can increase depending on rainfall. The Iguazú River feeds the falls, dropping dramatically into a gorge surrounded by dense rainforest.
Boats, Spray, and Getting Completely Drenched
On Guillermo’s advice, we had already purchased our tickets online, including a VIP pass that allowed us to skip bus lines. At first, it felt unnecessary, but later in the day, as the crowd swelled, it proved useful. The park shuttle has three stops. We rode all the way to the end first, mainly because we needed restrooms and a quick break, and then worked our way back to the Macuco Safari stop for the boat ride. We decided to start with the boat ride to the base of the falls. The Argentinian side has stricter age restrictions, so this felt like the right place to do it since our 10 year old son could join as well. We bought rain ponchos, locked up our belongings, and got ready. The ride itself was one of the highlights of the entire trip. The river current was strong, the boat bounced over the water, and the falls loomed larger with every passing minute. When the boat approached one of the smaller cascades, the spray hit us with full force. The boat captain maneuvered us in and out of the spray so that we were completely drenched, even with ponchos. The kids loved it. It was loud, chaotic, and exhilarating. Not a long ride, but absolutely worth it.
Walking the Falls
Still energized from the boat ride, we started the main walking circuit. The Brazilian side has a single, long trail where you can enjoy the falls from different angles. It is a steady walk, mostly downhill, and not too strenuous, but it does take time. At every turn, there was another view. The waterfalls were like lace curtains—some were tiny, some were massive, some joined together to form a larger one, and some were multi-level. This was one of the most beautiful waterfalls that I have ever seen. We also encountered coatis along the way, small, curious animals that are particularly adept at snatching unattended food from tourists. They moved in large groups, weaving their way between people, clearly used to the attention. The highlight of this circuit was the main horseshoe-shaped section of the falls. A walkway extends out toward it, bringing you almost directly in front of the water. The falls are actually on the Argentine side, but you get the front and center view from this walkway. At Iguazú, there are two horseshoe-shaped falls. The massive one is called Devil’s Throat, and behind that there is another similar fall. This is when the scale really hits you. This is not a single waterfall. It is a system, a vast, interconnected network of water, cliffs, and mist. You are surrounded by it.
Birds, Color, and an Unexpected Detour After the falls, we walked next door to Parque das Aves. We were tired and almost skipped it. I was rather skeptical of a bird park, but once we started, it pulled us in. We were initially tired, but some food and fresh fruit juices helped us get our second wind. Once we started, the kids were energetic and excited to see what was ahead. Toucans perched just a few feet away, almost like tame pets. I saw more macaws in bright colors than I could count. Parakeets were everywhere. In addition, there were flamingos, ibis, owls, and many other birds.
Back to Argentina (and the Reality of Borders)
Crossing back into Argentina was not as smooth. Guillermo, as a local, was able to bypass most of the process, but we had to stand in line for immigration at the Brazilian border for over an hour. By now, we were exhausted. But we made one final stop at the Hito Tres Fronteras, where Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay meet. The area had a lively, almost festive atmosphere, but we were too tired to fully enjoy it and headed back to the hotel instead. We checked into St. George Resort and went out for a simple dinner at one of the closest restaurants we could find. By chance, it turned out to be a good meal—steak and local fish. But the real highlight was dessert. On Guillermo’s recommendation, and confirmed by our waiter, we went to a nearby ice cream shop called Cremolati. It was excellent, easily one of the best we had on the trip.
The Argentinian Side: Closer, Louder, More Intense
The next morning, we were supposed to leave at 7:30 a.m., but realistically got out closer to 8:30. That one-hour delay mattered. It was Easter weekend, and Iguazú National Park was packed. The line to enter stretched endlessly, even with tickets. We managed to move forward by strategically attaching ourselves to a tour group, a familiar “adjust and move” strategy familiar to all Indians. Inside, it was crowded everywhere. There were so many people that we could only get onto the train to Devil’s Throat an hour later. The train to the main viewing area was delayed by about 40 minutes, the lines for water were long, and the heat added to the fatigue. But eventually, we boarded the train to Devil’s Throat. Once we were on the walkway, we immediately forgot the heat, the crowd, and the fatigue. The experience there is completely different from the Brazilian side. A long walkway stretches across the width of the river, and the sheer width is stunning—it is as though you are crossing multiple rivers. Then suddenly, you reach the edge, and you feel the magnificence of the falls. The roar is constant and overpowering. The spray rises up in thick clouds, and you can feel it on your face. We were not looking at the falls from a distance anymore. We were standing at the edge of them. The crowds made it harder to get a clear view, but we managed by slowly moving and finding small openings. It was worth it. On the way back, we saw more wildlife, coatis, birds, and even some monkeys.
One Last Look
The kids were tired, so we left them with some ice cream while we continued to part of the upper circuit. The Argentinian side has extensive walkways, allowing you to experience the falls from multiple levels and angles. If the Brazilian side gives you the big picture, the Argentinian side lets you feel the power. By the time we left, it was around 3 p.m. We headed back to the hotel, where they kindly let us use the pool even after checkout. The kids jumped in while we took quick showers and got ready. And then it was time to head back to the airport, carrying with us one of the most overwhelming natural experiences we have had.